Susan Serven

Okay, full disclosure – I lived in Cork, Ireland for 2 years so it’s always felt like a second home to me but I was able to experience it anew when we took our two daughters back for a visit.

No one believed I could drive on the “wrong” side of the street, so I needed to prove them wrong. I ended up not doing too much driving (by popular opinion) but I proved my point.

The idea, however, was that we’d land in Dublin and then drive in a big circle through Ireland and it turned out to be a very good way to see this magnificent country.

After landing in Dublin we checked into the Clarence Hotel (Oxygen Bar in this chic hotel formerly owned by U2’s Bono and The Edge) and it completely lived up to its funky, downtown hype. Great bar, fabulous food.We did all the things you do – toured the downtown area where history took place in 1922 (google Dublin Post Office), visited Trinity College, saw the Book of Kells, visited the Guinness Factory, hung out in Temple Bar, walked everywhere in this picturesque city on the River Liffey, which divides the city in two and flows through the center of Dublin before reaching Dublin Bay.

If you have time, take a day trip to Giant’s Causeway and see part of Belfast, it’s a long day, but absolutely worth it. Trust me.

We then drove from Dublin north to see Newgrange, located Brú na Bóinne, County Meath. Newgrange is a Stone Age (Neolithic) monument, located in the Boyne Valley, County Meath. Newgrange was constructed about 5,200 years ago (3,200 B.C.) which makes it older than Stonehenge. The mound is ringed by 97 large kerbstones, some of which are engraved with symbols called megalithic art; the most striking is the entrance stone. There is a passage where the sun illuminates the inside on December 21, the Winter Solstice, each year.

Although we didn’t visit at the Winter Solstice, we were there in mid-December which was close enough for me. It was magnificent, and it’s a part of Ireland that few people seem to get around to visiting.

From there we drove South, past Dublin, down to Cork.Once in Cork we visited our old homes, met our old landlord (!), toured the entire town and stayed in the gorgeous Hayfield Manor Hotel. It was December, Christmas-time, and decorated to the hilt. It’s a warm, welcoming, beautiful place. If you get a chance, stop by, stay for tea or dinner, or better yet, spend a couple of nights.

A don’t-miss place to visit is the English Market in Cork City, the place to go for local produce in Cork city since the 18th century. First opened in 1788, the English Market is one of the oldest municipal markets in the world, and a foodie’s delight.

We wanted to be sure take a drive down to Kinsale, passing through Sneem (once voted Ireland’s Tidiest Town). Kinsale, on the water, is the Nantucket of Ireland, although smaller and prettier IMO.

After Cork we headed west and up to Galway, making many stops along the way. After checking in to the fabulous G Hotel we headed out, did loads of sightseeing, found the Spanish Arch, the old doorway built in 1584, one of two main entrances to the city.Galway is charming, known for its vibrant arts and festivals, lively traditional Irish music scene, bohemian atmosphere, and scenic coastal location on the Wild Atlantic Way. The city hosts numerous festivals like the Galway International Arts Festival and the Galway Film Fleadh, features a rich tradition of music in its many pubs and streets, and offers charming cobblestone streets. Lots of great shopping, picturesque spots.

The next day we took the morning to drive around, found the magical town of Spiddal (An Spidéal) – one of the last Irish-speaking areas in the country and home to Colaiste Chonnacht a school which teaches Irish language, culture and traditions. There was some more good shopping, handmade items, unique to Ireland.

We even took the time to go back to the Connemara Coast Hotel.

Fun (?) story – when we lived in Cork, we thought it would be fun to just head off on a road trip, no reservations, nothing, and see what was around. We drove and stopped, drove and stopped, until we were exhausted and ended up in Galway.

After checking around we found there were no hotel rooms of any kind to be found because it was “Easter Weekend.”

Whoops.

A kindly concierge took pity on us and called the Connemara Coast Hotel. They happened to have one room left, and what a welcome room that was. We arrived about 9pm, starving, exhausted and no longer really fans of “spontaneity.”

Dinner was in their spectacular restaurant on the rocky coast, right on the bluffs, I’ve never tasted food or beer that wonderful.

Then we headed back to Dublin by way of the Rock of Cashel, in Tipperary. The Rock of Cashel, iconic in its historic significance, possesses the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in Ireland.

They say once you’ve visited the “old sod” it never leaves your heart and I’m pretty sure that’s true.

‘Tis a wondrous place to be sure.