Susan Serven

Banff BC has always been on our list of Travel Must Sees, but for one reason or another we never actually made it there. 

Then our younger daughter, a newly-minted engineer said, “We’ve always said we were going to go to Banff, it sounds so beautiful, a few friends and I are going in February.” 

R’uh oh. 

So, after “February, Becky, it’s going to be so so cold,” and the reply “I want to see the high highway with actually ice,” off she went. 

We took that as a challenge. 

So, I messaged us all about dates (including older daughter Emily who most definitely does NOT like the cold or seeing the ice highway with actual ice), we picked a 5-day trip around Labor Day, booked our flights and critically, booked the Accor Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. 

Now, by the time we went both Becky and my husband (who’d gone as a teenager) had both been there, but I was completely unprepared for how absolutely breathtaking it was, wherever you went. 

We flew into the Calgary International Airport (YYC) and made the very scenic nearly-two-hour drive along the Trans-Canada Highway, before sundown. It was spectacular. 

We checked into the historic old Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, so much to see - so much history displayed all around the hotel – and planned our activities. 

The next morning at first light (!) we took what was supposed to be (but my daughters are kinda extra) a five-mile hike but which turned into an all-day nearly twelve-mile.

It was so completely worth it – the nature, views, ice-capped mountains in the distance, everything was spectacular. Bring your bear spray!!

That night we settled in for a much-deserved rest and got up (not at the crack of dawn but close) to do a full day driving tour of Banff via the Famous Icefields Parkway.

This Parkway (aka Highway 93 North), is a 140-mile stretch of road renowned as one of the most scenic drives in the world, connecting Lake Louise in Banff National Park with Jasper National Park.

This route offers breathtaking views of glaciers, turquoise lakes, waterfalls, and wildlife as it winds through the Canadian Rockies. We also (of course) visited Peyto Lake and hiked other areas in Banff National Park, truly one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever seen. 

The next day we went a little more in-depth in to the history and Town of Banff itself, parking in the Town and heading over to the Banff Gondola experience. At the top, you can find the Sulphur Mountain Boardwalk, which leads to 360-degree views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, along with the Cosmic Ray Station and Sanson's Peak. The facility also offers dining options, an interpretive center, and a rooftop observation deck. 

We ended the day walking around the charming Town of Banff, so picturesque, wonderful shops, restaurants, and…fudge. We had dinner at the iconic Grizzly House, steak and cheese fondue (moose! Elk!) in this dark-wood toned atmospheric pub. 

The next day was the day for our visit to Jasper National Park and the Columbia Icefield, the largest ice field in North America's Rocky Mountains. In Canada's Rocky Mountains this area sits astride continental divide at the border of British Columbia and Alberta, partially within both Jasper and Banff National Parks.

This area is a significant geological feature, with the ancient Athabasca Glacier being a popular and accessible part of the icefield, and the surrounding landscape showcasing glaciers, waterfalls and Alpine lakes. Bring your courage, your cleats, and warm clothes for this adventure! 

Our last day we got up well before dawn to head to Moraine Lake, at Banff National Park, for a peek at Banff’s dark skies – parks used to be open to everyone all the time but now, due to over-tourism and the concern about preserving Alberta’s starry skies, timed tickets and motor coaches are the way to see these spectacular areas. 

(Fun fact: while there I coincidentally received an email from a radio station in Alberta looking to learn more about dark sky tourism – I told them I was currently IN Alberta and we did an impromptu podcast from my hotel room later that evening.) 

After viewing the stars, we climbed to the top to watch the sun rise over Moraine Lake, a stunning turquoise lake, cradled by the Valley of the Ten Peaks, then reluctantly rode the bus back to the hotel for a big breakfast and a day of canoeing on Lake Louise.

It’s really hard to describe the magnificence and natural wonder of this incredible place.