Steven Callas

I arrived in Rome just after noon and headed straight to Palazzo Manfredi, a Relais & Châteaux property across from the Colosseum. From the rooftop, you can see the entire amphitheater illuminated at night...an unforgettable backdrop to your first glass of wine. I had one night in the city before heading north to Umbria, and this hotel offered the right balance: proximity to landmarks, a calm interior, and a restaurant worth dressing up for.

Dinner was at Aroma, the Michelin-starred restaurant on the hotel’s rooftop. I had the tasting menu with wine pairings. The standout course was a truffle risotto paired with a glass of Umbrian Grechetto that would have felt out of place anywhere but here. It was indulgent, sure, but not flashy. A calm, confident start to the week. 

Umbria: Slower, Better

The next morning, my rental car was waiting at the hotel. I set out for Todi, a small hill town in southern Umbria. The drive took a little under two hours, and the road curved through olive groves and hilltop villages that seemed frozen in time. I checked into Castello di Reschio, a restored 1,000-year-old estate that now operates as a 36-room luxury hotel on a private nature reserve. 

My suite had stone walls, modern art, and French doors that opened onto views of the Umbrian countryside. That first afternoon, I took a guided walk around the estate with one of the staff, who pointed out truffle oaks and explained the wild horses and ancient olive varieties cultivated on the property. Dinner was held in the Ristorante Al Castello, where the menu changes with what’s grown or foraged on site. I ordered the handmade tagliolini with shaved black truffle and grilled pigeon. Everything came from within 20 kilometers. 

Todi and Orvieto 

On day three, I drove into Todi for the morning market in Piazza del Popolo. The town doesn’t draw the same crowds as neighboring Montepulciano or Assisi, and that’s the appeal. I sat outside at Caffè del Mercato, had a cappuccino and a sfogliatella, and listened to a group of older men debate whether it would rain that afternoon. 

Later, I visited Orvieto, perched high on volcanic rock. The Duomo was even more impressive in person. It featured striped stonework, massive bronze doors, and frescoes inside that rival anything in Florence. I had a long lunch at Trattoria del Moro Aronne, ordering a half carafe of white wine and their seasonal gnocchi with sage and Umbrian sausage. 

Back at Reschio, I took an evening dip in the indoor/outdoor pool and read by the fireplace in the drawing room. The pace here encourages it. No one is rushing to the next sight. Every interaction is quiet, efficient, and warm. The staff knows your name, your drink, and whether or not you want to be left alone. 

Return to Rome 

On the final day, I returned to Rome by mid-morning and checked into Hotel Vilòn, a discreet luxury hotel tucked just behind Via dei Condotti. It’s a restored 16th-century palace that now has just 18 rooms, a lush interior courtyard, and one of the best hidden breakfasts in the city. I walked along the Tiber and visited the Galleria Borghese, skipping the guided tour and taking the audio guide instead. 

For dinner, I booked a table at Roscioli Salumeria, not far from Campo de’ Fiori. The restaurant is half wine cellar, half Roman institution. I ordered the carbonara, made with aged guanciale and Pecorino Romano, and paired it with a natural wine from Lazio recommended by the sommelier. It’s the kind of place where you can still hear Italian spoken at the next table. 

Final Reflections 

Italy rewards patience. In Rome, it's in the quiet courtyards and unfussy trattorias that most tourists miss. In Umbria, it's in the slowness of a morning walk, a plate of pasta that tastes like it was made for you, and a conversation that lingers longer than expected.