Steven Callas

I arrived at Denpasar in the late afternoon, where a driver from my hotel was waiting with cold towels and bottled water. Traffic near the airport was slow, but once we passed Sanur and started climbing toward the central highlands, the air cooled and the road turned green on both sides. My destination was Capella Ubud, a tented retreat surrounded by jungle and rice terraces, just north of the main town. 

The hotel is intentionally secluded. There are no elevators, no corridors, and no background music. Each suite is a standalone canvas tent with polished teak floors, copper soaking tubs, and saltwater plunge pools. Mine overlooked a ravine filled with palm trees and birds I couldn’t name. That first evening, I ate on-site at Mads Lange, the hotel’s restaurant, where the grilled local fish came wrapped in banana leaf and served with warm sambal, water spinach, and black rice. 

A Day in Ubud 

The next morning, I visited Tirta Empul, a temple complex and water purification site about 30 minutes from the hotel. A guide arranged by Capella explained the ritual and history, then gave me time to walk the grounds alone. Locals performed ablutions in the holy spring. Tourists watched quietly from the edge. 

In Ubud town, I stopped for coffee at Seniman Coffee Studio, which roasts its beans in small batches and offers tastings with a short orientation on Balinese varietals. I had lunch nearby at Locavore To Go, which serves sustainably sourced dishes in a small casual space. The smoked duck sandwich and house-made pickles were especially good. 

Later, I visited the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA). Most visitors go to the Ubud Art Market, but the museum offers context and space. Paintings by Balinese masters hang next to works by Indonesian contemporary artists. The galleries are quiet, the gardens even more so. 

Back at Capella, I spent the early evening reading on the veranda, and then took a private yoga class in a bamboo pavilion lit by oil lamps. The instructor tailored the session to address jet lag and tight hips from long-haul travel. Wellness in Bali isn’t advertised here, it’s woven into the pace and surroundings. 

Into the Sidemen Valley 

On day three, I traveled east to the Sidemen Valley, a region known for its rice terraces, weaving villages, and slow roads. I stayed at Wapa di Ume Sidemen, a small hillside resort with panoramic views of the valley. My room had wide windows that opened onto green slopes and a private infinity pool that faced Mount Agung. 

In the afternoon, I joined a guided walk through the rice fields. My guide, Wayan, had grown up in the village and pointed out local herbs, wild ginger, and the water buffalo his family still used to plow the fields. We passed shrines wrapped in checkered cloth and small offerings placed at the edge of irrigation paths. There were no crowds, no tour buses, and no sound but the hum of insects and the occasional birdcall. 

That night, I had dinner at the hotel restaurant, which serves traditional Balinese fare made from ingredients grown on-site. The highlight was a slow-cooked chicken in turmeric broth, served with cassava greens and sambal matah. There was no wine list, just arak cocktails and fresh lime juice. 

Final Notes 

Bali has a reputation for beach clubs, scooters, and overstimulation. But inland, in places like Ubud and Sidemen, the rhythm slows. Travel becomes less about activity and more about noticing where you are. The luxury is found in quiet: clean food, careful hospitality, and space to move without interruption.